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Asia is Cool this Year of the Dragon

Discover Asia’s frugal hotspots

By Max Milano *

The dragon in Chinese mythology is a symbol of good fortune and freedom. Use some of that luck and freedom to explore the trendiest frugal travel spots in Asia. We did our homework, so you won’t have to.

Goa, India

Goa is a slice of India that is unlike all the rest. Perhaps 450 years of Portuguese rule has something to do with it. The Portuguese left in 1961 after a brief war but their legacy remains in the crumbling Mediterranean inspired architecture and in the heady East meets West fusion of Goan cuisine and culture. Nowadays Goa is a tropical paradise of spicy coconut fish curries and palm tree lined beaches, where you can rent a hut facing the Arabian Sea from only $9 per night (posher hotels do exist in Goa, but what can beat a $9 per night beach hut?). When you arrive in Goa you will feel as if time has stood still, your days will be filled with trips to its colorful markets, sunbathing on its gorgeous beaches and basically getting ready for Goa’s legendary nightlife (Goa’s moonlit beach raves are the stuff of legend).

How to Get there: Fly into Mumbai for less with and take the bus down, or book your passage on the famous Konkan railway . Get ready to go, Goa awaits.

Fly to Mumbai for less with this airfare deal from Vayama.com

Go to Goa!

Myanmar(Burma)

Yes, there is a way to Mandalay. Myanmar (Burma) has recently opened for travelers after many years of isolation; some might still prefer to stay away, but they would be missing one of the most fascinating countries in Asia. Kipling wrote: “This is Burma, it is quite unlike any place you know about.” Things have not changed much since Kipling’s time; the pace is slower than in most Asian countries and the roads are bad, but the beaches are out of this world, the people generous and gentle, the pagodas golden, and saffron robed monks still bathe Buddha’s statue every day. And then there is Mandalay, Myanmar’s second city, with a name like that, who wouldn’t want to go and discover the last lost paradise in Asia.

How to get there: The cheapest way to fly into Myanmar is to score the lowest airfare to Bangkok and then book a separate Bangkok to Yangon (Rangoon) puddle jumper flight.

Fly to Bangkok for less with this airfare deal from Vayama.com

Take the road to Mandalay

Cambodia

You can have a ‘Holyday in Cambodia’. Cambodia’s French influence can be seen in the food (fantastic ducl l’orange) and in the architecture. The pace of life is lazily slow and the cost of living extremely low, making it one of the best frugal destinations in Asia, but what really makes this corner of the former French Indochina shine is the fabulous temple complex of Angkor Wat. Truly unforgettable.

How to get there: Find the cheapest airfare to Bangkok and then catch the puddle jumper on Bangkok Airways to Siem Reap.

Fly to Bangkok for less with this airfare deal from Vayama.com

Angkor Wat

Taiwan

Be big in Taiwan. Taiwan has to be the most overlooked destination in Asia. This is a real shame because this beautiful island boasts everything you would expect from a modern tropical Asian destination: A busting metropolis with all the mod cons and cool night markets (check out the Japanese influence in the architecture and culture), a gorgeous coastline that stretches for miles, dramatic cliffs, quaint fishing villages, and miles of hiking trails among lush forests and steaming hot springs. Taipei also offers the best pan-Chinese cuisine in the world and a national museum that is considered ‘the Louvre of Asia’.

Discover the best of Taiwan with this hot deal to Taipei on Vayama.

Big in Taiwan

* Max Milano is the Author of “The Mechanicals of Recoleta”Available at Amazon

Get more bang for your buck in these cool frugal travel destinations

By Max Milano *

Frugal travel in 2012 means that you save on the airfare and then keep saving when you get there, without skimping on creature comforts nor culinary and cultural experiences.

Top Hot & Frugal Travel Destinations for 2012

India

India is hot and will only get hotter in 2012. It is a magnet for business travelers and Indian expatriates returning to visit family and friends. Booking a journey to Rishikesh on the shores of the Ganges and the foothills of the Himalayas to recharge one’s spiritual batteries has never been more appealing in this post “occupy” era. The US Dollar travels far in India, with very nice accommodation from $35 per night, often including meals (you can book a stay in an Ashram for even less, with room and board and meditation sessions included).

Fly to India for less with these frugal Indian deals

Ga-ga for Agra

New Zealand

New Zealand will continue to be trendy hot in 2012 for many reasons. Not only is it relatively affordable for U.S. travelers, but New Zealand is also the setting of Peter Jackson’s “Lord of the Rings” prequel, “The Hobbit.” Hordes of hobbit fans are expected to descend upon the quaint Kiwi town of Matamata to trample around the set of Hobbittown. New Zealand also offers world-class wineries, spectacular scenery and the best drinking buddies you can find in Middle Earth.

Fly to New Zealand for less with these frugal Kiwi deals

Auckland is Cool

Europe

Historically a close second to beach vacations, Europe is a place where Americans like to spend their travel dollars the most. 2012 will be no different. Travel professionals have started to note the popularity of off season and shoulder season travel to Europe. This means that savvy travelers have started to take advantage of winter and fall deals to their favorite European destinations. Iceland may become the hot European destination of 2012 due to its new affordability post-financial meltdown. Keep an eye on Italy and Greece becoming hot again, for the same reasons.

Fly to Europe for less with these frugal European deals

London

London will be so hot in 2012 that it deserves its own mention. With the 2012 Olympics, London is set to showcase why it is the most cosmopolitan city in Europe. London’s plethora of accommodation options, extensive public transportation and free tourist attractions (museums, fireworks etc) means that there is always something to do and somewhere to stay in London to fit every budget.

Fly to London for less with this frugal UK deal

Paris

Americans have been deeply in love with Paris since the 1920s. 2012 will be no exception. American tourists will flock to the “city of lights” in 2012 and be dazzled by its beauty, culinary arts and cultural wonders. Like London, Paris offers accommodations to fit all budgets (from hostel bunk beds to suites at the George V), plenty of free sightseeing and a perfect picnic by the Seine River is a frugal pleasure that can’t be topped.

Fly to Paris for less with this frugal French deal

South Africa

South Africa is becoming a world-class destination that is affordable for U.S. travelers. Cape Town is one of the most beautiful cities on earth, penguins and Table Top Mountain included. The South African national park systems is set up in such a way that anyone with a rental car can drive themselves and admire lions, leopards, elephants, buffalos and rhinos along with zebras, warthogs, hyenas and South Africa’s plentiful bucks. American travelers will appreciate a visit to Stellenbosch, the Western Cape’s California like wine region, with world-class wine and food.  South Africa will definitively continue on the travel map for 2012.

Fly to South Africa for less with this frugal Cape Town deal

Cape Town Rocks

Peru

Peru is among the top five destinations in 2012 for frugal and adventurous Americans. Hiking the Inca trail to Machu Picchu is fast becoming a popular task on one’s bucket list. Culinary delights available in Lima and Cuzco are well worth the price of the airfare. Peru is also quite cheap for U.S. travelers, making it an almost perfect adventure destination.

Fly to Peru for less with this frugal Lima deal

Buenos Aires

A surprisingly affordable, trendy and sophisticated city, Buenos Aires dazzles with its French revival buildings and great food scene. Take a detour and visit the wine region of Mendoza or the deep blue glaciers of Patagonia.

Fly to Argentina for less with this frugal Buenos Aires deal

http://www.vayama.com/travel-deals/miami-to-buenos-aires/

Brazil

This is Brazil’s decade as it will host the Soccer World Cup in 2014 and the Olympic Games in 2016. Americans have already fallen in love with Brazil’s affordability and beaches;  from the world famous Ipanema beach, to the solitary stretches of sand and surf along the northern cities of Recife and Fortaleza. With friendly locals and world-class scenery, Brazil is perfect for those seeking a tropical vacation with a samba twist.

Fly to Brazil for less with this frugal Rio de Janeiro deal

http://www.vayama.com/travel-deals/new-york-to-rio-de-janeiro/

China

China is big on the travel map and will only get bigger in 2012. Not only is China affordable and a lot of fun; it offers something for everybody;  from Macau’s glitzy casinos that rival anything Las Vegas has to offer, to the 24-hour party and shop until you drop atmosphere of Hong Kong and Shanghai and the ancient treasures of Xian and Guilin. American foodies will have a feast exploring China’s culinary delights. Ni Hao!

Fly to China for less with this frugal Shanghai deal

Indonesia

Indonesia is very affordable and beautiful in its sheer variety. From Bali’s temples, rice paddies and surfer beaches, to its world-class diving spots along chains of uninhabited islands; American travelers have fallen in love with Indonesia and they will continue their love affair in 2012.

Fly to Indonesia for less with this frugal Bali deal

* Max Milano is the Author of “The Mechanicals of Recoleta”Available at Amazon

By Linda Rodriguez Guglielmoni *

Winter in Spain in Mainly plane (cool)

I’m in Madrid during the winter for the first time and it’s a much livelier place than I remember. There are so many new cool little restaurants and bars and everyone is very friendly. Madrid’s famous department store El Corte Ingles has an entire wall with lights that flash and play tunes. I really think that Spain is more fun to visit in winter than in summer. I’d only been here during the summer and always found it to be way too hot!

My first stop was at the Prado Museum, it’s neo-classical building has a new wing and modern snack bar that reminds me of the coffee shop at the MOMA in New York. It was truly amazing to see so many Picassos and Goyas up close. My absolute favorite is the Maja Desnuda. Then I visited the old post office building at the Plaza de las Cibeles. It has been converted into a museum with a lookout tower.

Mad for Madrid's Majas

Next I went to the Palacio Real de Madrid (the King’s ceremonial palace). It was like visiting the Sixteen Chapel.  I took a guided tour and since it was a weekday there were only five people on our tour,  so the guide was able to take us into sections of the palace that big groups don’t get to see; like the King’s private painting collection (he has a Caravaggio and a Goya). The King’s collection also includes a complete Stradivarius set of string instruments (perfect for quintets).

The King's Stradivarius

I then went to the Textile Museum an entire museum dedicated to clothes! The Textile Museum has a beautiful store where I bought the most beautiful purple and black silk scarf by Spanish designer  Kanjimania (inspired by Japanese ideograms). The lady at the museum store recommended the Museo Romantico; dedicated to art from the Romantic era.

Later I went to a store specializing in Flamenco clothes located on a wonderfully named street: Calle de la Tahona de las Delcalzas, where I found a hot red shawl to wear over the black dress I picked for New Year’s Eve. Locals celebrate the new year under the Tio Pepe sign at Madrid’s Puerta del Sol. I plan to bring my own bottle of Spanish Cava and twelve grapes (just like the locals do). When the clock strikes twelve we will all pop corks at the same time and eat the twelve grapes washed down with Spanish bubbly. Yes, Madrid is way more exciting than I remembered!

I had dinner tonight at Restaurante Sobrino de Botin, the oldest restaurant in the world and a Hemingway favorite. Their specialty is cochinillo (suckling pig) cooked whole in a brick wood oven. I sat next to the door that leads to their wine cellar while enjoying a fine bottle or Rioja wine. The servers were very attentive and the cochinillo was perfectly cooked and had absolutely no fat since they are all slow cooked for two hours. The waiter told me they had cooked 45 piglets that night and that on Saturday nights they usually cook 50! They’ve been doing this since 1725! And the dessert was amazing too; Torta Botin, a sort of tres leches with egg whites cooked to fluffy perfection. No wonder Hemingway loved this locale just off Madrid’s Plaza Mayor.

El Botin: 50 piglet a day keeps the doctor away!

I’m really enjoying the winter atmosphere in Madrid, people are so social here. Everyone was out in the streets tonight with funny hats and wigs! And El Corte Ingles had people out in the street dressed as Mini Mouse and Mickey Mouse giving out toys to children. Madrid is so cool this winter that it’s making me feel like a kid in Disneyland. Only that there is nothing plastic about Spain, Ole!

Fly to Madrid for less this winter with Vayama’s Europe Winter Deals.

Linda Rodriguez Guglielmoni is a poet and world traveler. Read more about Linda.

All Tomorrow’s Parties

Celebrate New Year’s Eve around the World

By Max Milano *

New Year’s Eve has many names around the world: from Hogmanay to Kaapse Klopse, but whatever name the locals give to it, we can recognize a great party when we see one. Here are the most happening New Year’s Eve bashes around the world to welcome 2012 the party harty way.

Edinburgh

Get ready for tree days of wild celebrations Scottish style. Edinburgh’s Hogmanay hails back the ancient Celtic festival of winter solstice.  Join the kilted revelers carrying torches during the Torchlight Procession that opens the festivities. A wild street party with several pop and rock music acts follow, topped by the traditional Loony Dook swim in the River Forth. There can only be one Hogmanay!

Aye! Aye! Hogmanay!

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Madrid

Spain and party are practically synonyms and Madrid has to be where Spain parties hardest. Be at Plaza del Sol for New Year’s Eve, most of Madrid congregates there by 11.30 pm, right under the famous Tio Pepe sign. Do as the locals do and bring your own bottle of chilled Spanish cava and twelve grapes. Eat the grapes when the clock chimes twelve, washed down with the Spanish bubbly. Follow the revelers into the nearby Plaza de Santa Ana for bar hopping galore. Finish at dawn with a traditional cup of hot Chocolate and churros. Feliz Año Nuevo!

Celebrate NYE under Madrid's Tio Pepe sign

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Hong Kong

Hong Kong prides itself to be the best place in China to be on New Year’s Eve. They even have a Times Square shopping mall, modeled after New York, complete with a ball dropping at midnight. Head to the waterfront for Hong Kong’s spectacular New Year’s fireworks display and party the night away in the Lan Kwai Fong district.

NYE at Times Square Mall Hong Kong

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Reykjavik

Iceland’s capital has more bars per capita than any other city in Europe and the Icelanders sure make good use of them during New Year’s Eve. Star the evening with the local custom of ‘hottubing’ (where you pack into a hottub with all your buddies and a six pack of beer- for a more up market head to the Blue Lagoon, Iceland’s world famous open air spa). As the clock strikes midnight, hundreds of bonfires will light the Nordic sky. Keep warm by cozying up to the fire and sharing shots of Brennivín (Iceland’s national spirit) with the friendly locals.

NYE in Iceland

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Rio de Janeiro

New Year’s Eve on Copacabana beach is perhaps one of the most spectacular times to be in Rio. Everyone wears white as they drop small offers into the surf while amazing fireworks explode overhead. If partying with millions of people on Copacabana Beach is not your cup of tea, get a room at the Copacabana Palace or other beachfront hotels to get the VIP treatment.

At Copa...Copacabana for NYE

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Cape Town

Cape Town is one of the most beautiful cities in the world and New Year ’s Eve is right in the middle of the southern summer. Be in Long Street or the Victoria and Albert Waterfront at midnight for bar hopping and fireworks get ready for the biggest bash of the year on Jan 2^nd, when the whole town spills out into the streets to celebrate the Kaapse Klopse Carnival.

Happy Kaapse Klopse from Cape Town

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* Max Milano is the Author of “The Mechanicals of Recoleta”Available at Amazon

A hip traveler heads south this French winter

By Sofie van Donselaar (Hip traveler)

Before the advent of the “Jet Age”, overseas flights to exotic destinations weren’t really an option and the only choice to escape the cold northern European winter was a very long train ride or boat trip. In those days the south of France was a very popular winter destination and not just because there was no boat involved. The weather was milder than in most parts of Europe at that time of the year and the scenery was (and still is) gobsmackingly beautiful. This made the French Riviera the perfect place for royalty and the plain wealthy to- as we say nowadays- hang out. Rumor has it that it was F. Scott Fitzgerald in “Tender is the Night” who decided that the south of France should be a summer destination instead of the traditional winter destination it had been up to that point. Just remember that in the 1930’s when Fitzgerald wrote his famous book there were no reality shows (no Paris Hilton) but the French Riviera did have a lot of ex-Czarist royalty, British socialites  and American expats that could show our Paris (the socialite, not the city) a thing or two.

It's still nice in Nice in the winter

Speaking of Paris (the city, not the socialite), this is the city everybody thinks of when you talk about visiting France in the winter. It’s the Eiffel Tower, the Champs Élysées and the Arc de Triomphe that come to mind, all lit and romantic in the snow.  But- even though the City of Light is beautiful, there’s much more to France in the winter than just Paris.  The Illuminated city may have blinded you with its lights, but if you want to take a peek at the ‘real’ France, head south my intrepid traveler.

I personally didn’t feel like I’d really seen the real France until I discovered the southern part of the country (most French people can back me up on this one).  Yes, I know that you can’t avoid the image of celebrities and royalty in Cannes or Nice and the fancy Yachts in the harbor at St Tropez during peak summer. We know that in summer the heels will always be high, the dresses short and the champagne will flow. But when the temperatures drops, the Riviera returns to being quaint part of provincial France with (as I can imagine) a big sigh of relief. And after that last bit of summer glitter has been brushed off you’ll see a whole new side to the south of France that you’ll simply love.

One of the best kept secrets of southern France (that I will never keep) is the town of Aix-en-Provence or ‘Aix’   for short.  Aix is one of those places I love, mostly for its elegant architecture that just feels so natural there. They don’t even have to try.

Aix-en-Provence promenade

No wonder that the famous post-impressionist painter Cezanne (who was born in Aix) was so inspired by his native town that he made many of his iconic paintings in and around Aix. When he left to study in Paris the only place that wanted to exhibit his work was the Salon the Refuses. This was the salon where they would show all of the works rejected by the jury for the official salon because they didn’t add up to what was then considered tasteful or real art. We can conclude one thing based on this information: Paris was wrong. If you compare Cezanne’s work inspired by Aix, you’ll see watercolors and serenity; his works from his time in Paris, on the other hand, is considered dark, sharp and moody. So I consider Cezanne to be on my side when it comes to Paris vs. the Riviera, and you will too.

Cezanne in Provence

When you wander through Aix you will understand why Cezanne and so many other painters spend a lot of time there. Walk through the Cours Maribeau with its rows of trees and classic buildings on each side of the road. Take your time to admire the fountains or have a coffee on the Place de l’Hotel de Ville. Visit the Aix Cathedral  (Cathédrale Saint Sauveur), the 17th century mansions and of course one of the fine Museums in town.

Make a quick stop at La Cure Gourmande store, a candy shop in the traditional French style; with piles and piles of chocolates and cookies, the cutest gift wrappings and (most importantly), it all tastes so GOOD.

I hope you consider allowing the south of France to enchant you this winter. Because you know, in the south, they have plenty of amour and lots of lights too, but most importantly, they have that unique provincial air that gave the region its name back when the Romans first trampled along its lavender filled meadows. Go to Province and the south of France this winter, you will be glad you did.

By Max Milano

Nightlife in San Juan Puerto Rico is legendary and we are happy to report that it is currently going through an upswing. Both colonial Old San Juan and the Miamiesque Condado district are currently full of great new bars and lounges where you can sip Mojitos and Daiquiris until the sun comes out. In fact this is one of the few seasons when both Old San Juan and Condado are happening at the same time. Check out El  Barril, Condado’s trendy new lounge and the recently remodeled lobby lounge at La Concha hotel.  Condado is Puerto Rico’s answer to Miami Beach, complete with Art Deco beach front condos, casinos and a strip of bars and restaurants offering everything from Nuevo Latino cuisine to Asian finger food.

Condado District San Juan Puerto Rico

Puerto Rico’s Wild Coasts

My favorite Puerto Rico strategy is to spend Friday through Sunday in San Juan, soaking up the nightlife and getting kicked out of bars at closing time (around 7am), but come Monday, I like to leave San Juan’s skyscrapers behind and head either east or west to Puerto Rico’s wild coasts.  A short 45 minute drive from San Juan is the town of Fajardo; this is where the ferry for Vieques departs. Vieques is Puerto Rico’s island paradise (a small island off the coast of the main island). A quirk of history kept Vieques off the tourist map for decades, so as San Juan developed beach front condos and hotels, Vieques stayed as pristine as when Columbus first sailed these Caribbean waters. Vieque’s present state of semi preservation comes courtesy of the US Navy, who used the island for target practice for over 60 years. The navy left in 2003, opening the formerly closed eastern and western sides of the island for tourism. Fortunately the island remains largely undeveloped, with miles of empty beaches. A typical day in Vieques starts with a ride down a dirt road to your favorite hidden cove. The waters are electric blue and you will be forgiven if you feel you’ve just landed in the south Pacific. At dusk, ask a local fisherman for a ride into Vieque’s world famous Mosquito Bay, where tiny microorganisms light the dark waters with bright bioluminescence. You can stay at the brand new W Vieques resort or try one of the cozy posadas that dot the island.

Vieques Beach

Go West

The beach town of Rincon on Puerto Rico’s west coast is the hottest surfing spot on the island. Miles of beaches and bars face world class waves and glorious sunsets. Hollywood celebrities frequently drop in (local boys Benicio del Toro and Ricky Martin are said to be regulars). Hardcore hipsters avoid San Juan altogether and head straight for Rincon from the airport. Have a drink or two at Tamboo Tavern, voted one the best beach bar in the world by Esquire magazine.

Camuy Caves

On the way back to San Juan from Rincon make a pit stop at the Camuy Caves, these amazing cathedral like caves were carved by underground rivers over millennia and now offer spectacular rock formations dripping with exotic vegetation. The sheer size of the caves makes you wonder about the amazing power of nature to carve rock into artistic shapes.

Camuy Caves

Book your San Juan, Puerto Rico flights for less on Vayama

* Max Milano is the Author of “The Mechanicals of Recoleta”Available at Amazon.

Forget Cuba, the best place to capture the Hemingway spirit of Old Havana is in today’s Old San Juan’s cobblestoned streets.

By Max Milano (Hemingway searcher)*

If you want to catch a glimpse of what pre-Castro Havana must have been like; full of casinos, American tourists and iconic cocktail bars or want to live the Havana of Hemingway and Graham Greene’s “Our Man in Havana”, look no further than the cobblestones streets of today’s Old Jan Juan.

It has to be one of the ironic twists of history, but Havana today has more in Common with Bratislava circa 1984 than with its heyday as the party capital of the Caribbean. Yes, one can visit Havana today (on a cultural tour) and try to imagine how great it was back in the day, but in spite of what Ray Cooder might say, Cuba’s 50 plus years of dictatorship have all but erased all traces of the Havana that Hemingway wrote about; its casinos are long gone and the paint is literally peeling off the walls of its formerly grand buildings.

If you want to stop imagining how cool Old Havana was and actually live it, head over to Old San Juan, Puerto Rico.

Puerto Ricans love rum and it shows. The bar at the Ritz Carlton features a “Rummelier” instead of a sommelier and in Old San Juan you don’t have to walk more than half a block in any direction to find a great watering hole; where else in the world would you find a plaque honoring Pina Colada?  Old San Juan has all the charm of Old Havana, and then some.

My first Old San Juan pit stop is at The Parrot Club, this is my personal equivalent of Hemingway’s second favorite bar in Havana; La Floridita (his favorite being La Bodeguita del Medio, a now famous autograph hands above the bar at La Bodeguita proclaiming: “My Daiquiri at La Floridita and my Mojito at La Bodequita”). Following Papa Hemingway’s advice I order a Daiquiri. I love The Parrot Club and the trendy Nuevo Latino restaurants and traditional Spanish Style Tapas bars around it, perfect for that all night rum crawl that Puerto Ricans are so fond off on Friday and Saturday nights.

My Daiquiri at the Parrot Club

After my Daiquiri at the Parrot Club  I move over to the Newyorican Café around the corner, this bar could be the answer to Havana’s La Bodeguita, with the added bonus of it being the temple of live salsa in Old San Juan. After admiring the locals’s fancy dance steps I begin to suspect that they practice in front of a mirror every afternoon; everyone seems to be an expert in hip shaking and fancy footwork. Perhaps they don’t need to practice, I saw children as young as 8 dancing with their parents (kids don’t get served drinks, of course, but they do boogie, it’s in their blood).

Old San Juan is the new Old Havana

I finish my Old San Juan rum crawl at this hole in the wall by the Plaza Colon, the décor is basic, just a few local beer posters and the punters are all crusty old bon vivants. A hand written cardboard sign above the bar is promoting “Chichaíto” shots for one buck. The chichaíto is Puerto Rico’s national cocktail, it even has it’s own Facebook page,  known stateside as a “Silver Bullet”; equal parts anisette and white rum, the chichaíto is absolutely lethal in the heat, I guess that’s the whole point. As I swig my chichaíto with the crusty locals I can’t help but think of Hunter S. Thompson and the other greats who drank and wrote in Old San Juan; it’s a perfect place for both activities. And just as Hemingway found inspiration in his favorite Old Havana bars, I had just found inspirations in my new favorite Old San Juan joint, but it could be just the chichaíto talking, salud!

Plaque to Pina Colada

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Next Week: The Rum Daily part 2: Condado and PR’s wild east and west coasts.

* Max Milano is the Author of “The Mechanicals of Recoleta”. Available at Amazon.

Of Fjords and Firewater

by Max Milano *

Our last 24 hours in Iceland were a whirlwind of Viking sagas, raging fjords a very blue lagoon and healthy dozes of Brennivin. All of these images flashed past my sore head as I stood under a man made waterfall in Iceland’s famous Blue Lagoon spa. To call this the best spa experience in the world is not really doing it justice. The place is set up like the villain’s lair in a James Bond movie; all high tech and polished steel coming out of the bare lava. You’re given an electronic bracelet that remembers your locker number and open and closes it by simply waving it over a sensor. It was blowing a gale outside but it was cozy and warm inside the confines of the spa building.  The blue lagoon bubbled as horizontal rain formed whitecaps on the electric blue water: Fire and Ice. It was a perfect symbol of Iceland itself, warm people, hot nightlife and a practically interminable supply of geo thermal energy bubbling at our feet and heating the very building we stood in (and every building on the island).

Blue Lagoon Spa: Very James Bond

I swam in the blue water as sleet pelted my face like a facial treatment from the heavens. I found the bucket of silica mud and smeared it all over my face. The wind chill factor was way below freezing but I was toasty under the warm blue water like a paella shrimp. The Blue Lagoon’s proximity to Keflavik international airport makes it the perfect stopover spa break or, as in our case, the last stop of a wonderful trip before heading back to the airport.

I soaked in the warm blue waters of the Blue Lagoon and reflected on the stark beauty of the island’s interior: A Viking council set up on the dramatic rocks formed by a massive geological fault, gushing geysers that explode high up in the sky, bubbling mud holes, driving snow and echoes of the Viking sagas swirling around the stark landscape.

We had spent our last night in Iceland at the Glymur Boutique Hotel, a 20 loft room hotel overlooking a Fjord with no paved roads or a town for miles. The staff left us after dinner and we had the run of the place. We hot tubbed until 2 am with the wind howling around us as we drank red wine and took shots of Brennivin for warmth. At 3.30 in the morning someone decided that it was a good idea to walk to the “lake” below (I was sure it was the Brennivin talking,  but it was our last night in Iceland after all).

Hotel Glymur: A Fjord runs trough it

In the end it was only two of us who set out with flashlights and raincoats down the gravel path towards the silvery body of water below the hotel. It looked close enough but it was now clear that we had to cross over a mile of open country in the dark. We waded through streams, knee deep in bog and jumped over several barbed wire fences until we found ourselves on the rocky shore of this raging fjord (it was clearly not a lake by this point).  The tide was out and the rocks glistened in the moonlight. A ghostly pale white rainbow framed the fjord, illuminated by a yellow full moon. I had never seen a white rainbow at night, but there it was, pale as a ghost, contrasting brightly against the heavy black clouds.  Sleet pelted us sideways and I feared for our lives next to the raging waters of the fjord but my traveling companion was in her element. I half expected her to start quoting Robbie Burns aloud in the rain.  I could see a Lutheran church in the distance, the only lit building for miles. I suggested heading that way to find a road. We scrambled over more bogs and hillocks until we were trampling over a Viking cemetery in the darkened yard outside the church. “We’re cursed” I said, remembering the Viking Sagas but she said something about the cemetery being from the 1950’s, as if that explained anything. We jumped the church fence and marched uphill in the dark. We were muddied and exhausted when we got back to the hotel, but so happy to have Iceland deep under our skin. And as I stood in the Blue Lagoon, savoring the last moments of our trip, I knew I would definitively come back to this gorgeous island of fire and ice.

At the airport as I waited to board Icelandair back to the west coast, I ran into two young American ladies I’d met in a club in Reykjavik, they had come over for the weekend and were heading back to New York and their hipster jobs in Brooklyn. They both loved their time in Iceland and declared it the perfect place for a long weekend getaway. As I waived goodbye  to my new friends I suddenly realized that Iceland had firmly arrived in the hip tourist’s map.

Fly from New York to Reykjavik from $444  on Vayama’s Icelandair deals.

* Max Milano is the Author of “The Mechanicals of Recoleta”. Available at Amazon.